The Ama Dablam expedition is one of the challenging and technical expedition in Everest region. The steep slope and South ridge expedition route make it difficult for climbing. You have to set up three high camps for Ama Dablam summit climb. Ama Dablam Camp 1 at 5700m, Camp II at 5900m and Camp III at 6300m are set up for completing the expedition.
The mesmerizing view of Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Everest from Ama Dablam is incredible. After landing at Lukla Airport you will start trekking following the Everest base camp trekking route until you reach Tengboche. Continuing trekking to Ama Dablam base camp you will prepare for expedition to Ama Dablam camp 1. Climbing Ama Dablam offers various levels of difficulty. Base camp to camp I route is moderately difficult and camp I to camp II route is more technical with snowy slopes, steep and compact ice. Similarly, Camp II to Camp III route is the combination of both snowy path, rocky cliffs and snowy ridges. From camp III you will reach the summit of Ama Dablam and return back to base camp which would be extremely difficult and challenging.
Ama Dablam Expedition is of 35 days which includes the Ama Dablam base camp trek until reaching base camp. You will spend 18 days for an expedition on Mount Ama Dablam following the same route followed by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge on March 30, 1961.
Challenges and difficulties in Ama Dablam expedition
The steep peak of Ama Dablam itself is a challenge for climbers. The steep ice and rock of south west ridge, crevices, moraine ridges and scree create difficulties in climbing. Even though expert Sherpa’s will fully support for successful expedition both on ascending to the summit and descending down. Fixed ropes will be used in deep crevices.
Preparation for Ama Dablam expedition
Climbers should be fully prepared and well-experienced for the Ama Dablam expedition. You should do proper preparation through rock and hard compact ice climbing, and technical mountain climbing training with experts. No permission is allowed with experience in mountain climbing for climbing Ama Dablam.
Best season for the Ama Dablam expedition
Spring season, the months of March, April May and the autumn season, the month of September, October and November is the best season for the Ama Dablam expedition. You can’t climb Ama Dablam during winter due to extreme cold and in summer due to bad weather.
Ama Dablam Expedition Plan
Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu, transfers to hotel and welcome dinner in the evening
Day 02: Full day Guided Tour in Kathmandu valley. Checking the equipment & packing, introduction between our staffs and members concerning how do communicate each other
Day 03: Briefing at Minister of Tourism and Civil Aviation, Tourism Industry Division.
Day 04: By Plane: Kathmandu to Lukla, (35min-2800m). Trek to Phakding, (4h-2640m).
Day 05: Phakding to Namche Bazaar, (6h-3446m).
Day 06: Acclimatization.
Day 07: Namche to Tengboche Monastery (6h-3687m).
Day 08: Tengboche to Mt. Ama Dablam Base Camp (5h-4600m).
Day 09-27: Mt. Ama Dablam Climbing Period
Day 28: Cleaning up Base Camp.
Day 29: Base Camp to Tengboche
Day 30: Tengboche to Namche
Day 31: Namche to Lukla
Day 32: By Plane: Lukla to Kathmandu.
Day 33: Debriefing at Tourism Industry Division
Day 34: Free day in Kathmandu for shopping and other activities
Day 35: Departure